Bank Holiday Tinkerings: Adjusting tappets on 200TDI

First off: Big thanks to the +Land Rover Toolbox Videos and Mr. Higgins (some sterling work you're doing chief!) . Your recent video on adjusting the tappets on a 300TDI was a big help.

So on a somewhat dull bank holiday weekend when the kids are napping, its an opportunity to get the spanners out and tinker under the hood of the landy.

Mines a 200TDI under the hood: a sturdy lump, 2.5litre turbo charged diesel engine with no electronics for timing - simple & robust (provided its looked after)

Whenever I get a bit of time I watch Chris's videos, in particular today, whilst I was doing the washing up. Anyway he mentioned that his vehicle was a bit smokey and had a faint whiff of oil - bit like mine. So thought I'd give mine a look using the video as a guide.

First off was this "rule of nine" which I'd never heard of, being a newbie to this procedure.

Fortunately, this is also covered in one of Chris's earlier videos.

Basically: on a 4-cylinder engine there are typically 8 valves (inlet & exhaust), the order you adjust them should equal 9 - lets uses an example:

• valve 1 down - valve 8 open; 1+8=9
• valve 2 down - valve 7 open; 2+7=9
• valve 3 down - valve 6 open; 3+6=9
• etc, etc

This is how you set the valves you want to adjust before you adjust them. To do this, you turn the crank shaft over manually till you get the valve you want in the right position.

Armed with this knowledge, and the kids having a snooze, 200TDI workshop manual on tablet, I armed myself with some tools and head to the landy.

Tools

• 8mm socket
• for rocker cover bolts and cyclone breather bolt removal
•  30mm socket
• to turn crank over
• 1/2" drive ratchet
• or long bar
• if no long bar, some tubing to extend the reach on the ratchet
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 13mm spanner
• stubby flat head screw driver
• feeler/thickness gauge (cranked ones are an advantage)

Procedure

 First off you need to remove the cyclone breather and vacuum tubing off the rocker cover using an 8mm socket or spanner and a flat head to loosen any jubilee clips

Once off you can then remove the rocker cover off the top of the engine, take care when removing the cover as the gasket seal comes off with it. When reading the 200TDI service manual though - I did come across this interesting snippet:

Basically its asking to put down a silicone based sealant for the gasket. Yet mine is a rubber one part seal, so older 200TDI owners may possibly need to be aware of this?

Useful note here: Valve #1 is at the front of the engine (bottom of this photo is front), #8 is towards the bulkhead

THICKNESS OF GAUGE YOU SHOULD BE USING IS 0.2mm, THIS IS SPECIFIED IN THE WORKSHOP MANUAL

Its a good idea to have a notepad to hand to record your findings. Bear in mind that you should CHECK first BEFORE you adjust.

With the rocker cover off; you can now begin the procedure of checking the clearance. Here I have taken a screen shot from the 200TDI workshop manual I was using:

Turn the engine over using the 30mm socket and ratchet (with bar if necessary) and follow the order as above. From the video, the valve is full down when the tappet comes down and pauses a short while, whilst the crank is still being turned.

As you can see, using a straight set of gauges is quite tight, but I found that re-positioning them on the holder, you can get the fingers on the same plane as the gap your measuring, thus removing errors from the gauge flexing.

Your looking for just enough clearance to get the gauge between the valve spring cover and the tappet, with the smallest amount of friction. I found there was a little either way on some of them, but not enough to make me consider adjustment.

'scuse the handwriting

 From my readings, I found that valves 2 & 7 were a bit tighter than some, so went ahead and gave them a tweak.

As you can see from the manual illustration and the video's: To adjust the tappet you crack the nut holding the screw in place then using the screw driver and thickness gauges, adjust so the gauge passes under with the tiniest amount of fiction holding it (as per video). Then holding the screw driver in place, nip up the nut again. Afterwards you can torque them up to the exact spec (as stated in the video).

Once done I re-fitted everything and whilst I had the cyclone breather off, I replace the o-ring on it as it had a square edge, like it had been squished. Can't hurt to replace it.

So all in all this took about an hour, tops. Nothing too taxing, just nice and methodical, and could improve your emissions and maybe even recover some lost performance, depending on how far out they were.

I'll see if it has made a difference on my trip to work. But I doubt I'll notice.

If your looking for a 200TDI manual: here's a link to a shared copy on my google drive

This procedure is quite a way down so just keep hammer pgdn till you see it. Also this manual includes a turbo maintenance guide, procedure on how to remove and re-fit a 200TDI in a defender and a guide on fitting a full sized intercooler along with findings on performance from the guy who wrote it (all at the end)

Keep tinkering! 

Stripping the Swivel on my landy

This weekend I managed to fit the Swivel housing back on my Landrover (YEY a post about something other than electronics!)

I had done it before when I first got the vehicle. This was because at about 40mph a horrendous wheel wobble manifested itself when driving on standard road tyres! After changing the pan-hard rod bushes & Hub bearings, I did a quick overhaul job on the swivel housings and then the problem cleared.

However, a year down the line and the passenger side started leaking a mixture of EP90 and CV joint grease on the driveway......something not right and I had clearly not done a good job.

This lead to finding some useful advice and an glimpse into this vehicles past....

Do Your Research!

For those of you unfamiliar with parts of a Land rover - the swivel housing is located on the ends of the front axle:

From Landroverclub.net

And here are some exploded diagrams of the housing for my axles, courtesy of AllBrit (list of parts their website, follow the links under each pic)

The Swivel housing

http://www.allbrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=805193&SPRACHE=EN

The Swivel joint

http://www.allbrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=805070&SPRACHE=EN

The housing fits over the joint. Inside the housing is a CV joint (#2 on the swivel joint). This enables the drive from the differential to be transferred to the hub/wheel, via the half-shaft (#1 on the swivel joint), whilst allowing the hub/wheel to be steered.

I also did a bit of a search for guides on how to service/overhaul these swivel joints and came to a favourite channel of mine on youtube: Landrover Toolbox Videos  

If you look though his playlists, you can find an entire playlist dedicated to replacing the swivel housing in detail and from someone in the know, also a load more on tool reviews and tips & hints; mostly Land Rover related +Land Rover Toolbox Videos

I then ordered a swivel joint overhaul kit: DA3164P, from Paddocks and made a start.

Stripping & Re-build

On the bench

After taking the wheel off and freeing the track-rods, I undid the 7 Bi-Hex bolts holding the swivel joint to the axle, allowing me to pull the hub, housing and half-shaft out all in one go, to then take to the shed and start stripping it down and cleaning all the parts and inspecting them individually.

One thing I noticed when taking the half-shaft out was no EP-90 followed it out or leaked out when taking the bolts off! Probably cos it had escaped onto the driveway! A sure sign the seals had probably not been fitted properly!

After stripping the whole assembly down to its individual components and cleaning them in paraffin, I found a few errors I had made:

1. I had left the old gasket from before, for the bottom pin on the housing!
2. I had not put grease on the inside edge of the swivel housing
3. I had totally pre-loaded the housing incorrectly!
4. All surfaces for gaskets were not cleaned properly or at all.

Well that's what you get for a rush job! lesson learnt!

After I had cleaned up the parts I gave the surfaces where there would be a gasket (Housing face to stub axle, the face where the swivel joint joins the axle, and the face of the stub axle)  a pass with a Stanley blade, a scrub with a wire brush and then a finish with some wet/dry paper to clean them up proper.

Using a vice to hold the swivel ball, I began to pre-load the the housing as per the video. Once happy with the pre-load I fitted the the axle seal, and the oil seal. then moved the whole assembly to the vehicle where I cleared the old gasket & gunk for the axle end and built the rest up on the vehicle.

All new gaskets were fitted with some sealant on the mating surfaces.

Fresh pack of one-shot in the filler for the housing and some fresh grease and seals in the hub & bearings and job's a good'un. No leaks so far, but will see after I top up diff with EP90.

What was learnt

• Pre-loading the housing bearings properly is vital!
• Clearing the crud of mating surfaces helps
• Greasing seals helps ensure a good seal to keep unwanted muck out and keep lube in.
• Taking the time to clean your parts aids to a doing a job properly!

Also found out that the front axle is of a series 1 discovery:

This is not surprising really, the vehicle was trailed a lot before I got it, so it's more than likely that they were swapped due to damage.

Unfortunately, I damaged some of the brake lines to the calipers whilst trying to re-fit the assembly, another job on the list then!

HEY-HO!

Trails & Tribulations

So as promised, here's the ins and outs of trailing.

How I got into Trailing

I first got into trailing after I got in touch with an old mate of mine. I was a bit down after a break up and was watching Love The Beast. I am a a bit of a gear head anyway, so this got me inspired to get into motor sport so how....then remember: my friend mentioned he had got together with his dad to build an off-road trails vehicle.

So I rang him up and asked if I could help: 

"What you good at?" he said

"Wiring and electrical things" I replied

"Right, we could do with a sparky, see you Saturday!"

I showed up and was introduced to bare skeleton on wheels in a garage. There was quite a bit of work to do and it wasn't going to take a weekend.

So after my first weekend; hair full of oil, hands smelling of swafega, grit in my eyes and head full of new found knowledge, I decided to come back again the next weekend, and the weekend after, and the next weekend. After about a month or so's work she was ready!

Nice, new & shiny!

The first time it trailed, I didn't drive or navigate, I just watched. the second time I got offered to drive, and why not: I had a full UK drivers license and £10 for club membership & £20 for entry in my pocket. So I strapped myself in and my friend navigated. Here is one section of the event that day:

Yes...that is a pile of horse shit we are driving into at the end!

Since then I drove "Cannon Fodder" (that's what she was dubbed) for a few more trails, till I decided to go it my on and stop sponging rides off me mate.

How Trailing works

I joined the Pennine Land rover Club: who call themselves a slightly nuts bunch of land rover & 4x4 enthusiasts. I joined cos my mate was a member along with his dad and a few others I was introduced to through his dad.

Some clubs have different rules and regs but the principal is the same. 

So what happens?

I think the best way I can describe it is a bit like golf, but with 4x4's. Each event is split into 12 sections and each section has 12 gates. Lowest score wins.

A Gate is essentially 2 canes set apart with the a gate number ticket on on of the canes: this is ticketed cane must be on the drivers side of the vehicle. Between each gate are obstacles to challenge your driving skills or test your vehicles abilities. Sometimes the gates themselves are strategically placed to test the driver.

Barry attempts gate 5

Each section is set out by the clerk of the course: basically a member assigned to setting out the sections for that event. They usually turn up the day before to set out the section.

Each entered driver must then drive the section starting at gate 12 and ending at gate 1. Each gate you drive through; your score for that section decreases: so if you go through all 12, you get 0 (clear), if you get stuck between say 4 & 3 gates, you get 3 and if you hit a cane on a gate, you get the score of the gate you hit! 

Best score you can get for the whole event is 0 (12 x 0) and worst is 144 (12 x 12). My personal best is 12 for a whole event.

Then your scores are totalled up at the end of the day and the person with the lowest score gets bragging rights and club championship points and/or a prize (usually a t-shirt with clubs logo). 2nd and 3rd get club points accordingly

The clerk of the course however gets 10 points for his troubles for the whole event!

That it?!

Well not really, there's more to it. 

You don't have to but highly recommended that you walk the section before driving it. A navigator is optional, but providing they are 16 or over and not pregnant, its good to drag them along to walk the section too, making mental notes of obstacles and driving lines.

Jedi Clive advises Padawan Jezzmund on driving lines

I should make it clear at this point that speed is NOT the key when doing this kind of trailing! Your navigator does not have to by Nicky Grist and rattle off pace notes! All they have to do is remind you of lines and obstacles.

For more information, read the How To Play section on the Pennine Club Website

So Who makes the calls?

Each group or section as a number of Marshall's. These guys watch to make sure you don't hit a cane on a gate or fall foul of the obstacles.

Never argue with the Marshalls, their word is final! If you carry on arguing or misbehave you get a 12 for the rest of the sections and told to pack your shit & piss off!

So what counts as out?

• If you hit a cane, you stop, get off section & get a score for the cane you hit
• If you are not moving for 3 seconds, you stop, move off section, and get a score for the last gate you cleared.
• not moving means you are stationary, even if your wheels are spinning.
• If you get stuck in a gate: providing a wheel hub (centre of wheel) of one wheel is through the gate, that gate is cleared
• it is worth noting that if you think you are going to hit a gate, but can get your hub through: STOP!

Vehicle Classes

Vehicles are split into 2 main groups. All vehicles are closely scrutineered before competing to ensure that nothing bad happens to spectators or the drivers + passengers.

CCV

Mark 'il championi', MB62 CCV trailer

CCV or Cross Country Vehicle are mostly towed to and event. They are divided into classes depending on profile, running gear & drive train. they don't have to be taxed or MOT'd, nor be road legal. They do however have to be fitted with a roll cage sturdy enough to hold the vehicles weight and at least a 4 point harness for driver and passenger.

Our club most commonly run this group of vehicle with rover V8's ranging from 3.5 litre to 4.2 and even 5.5 litre! though some are now entering with turbo diesels and showing up the V8 lot!

Common choice of transmissions are automatic: low range, stick it in drive, point, stamp on throttle and watch the world go backwards!

Most of them weigh in around under a ton, so power to weight is quite good!

RTV

My pride & joy

RTV or Road Trails Vehicle are road legal, have a tax disc, and MOT and are commonly driven to events. Again the group is divided into classes depending on shape and specs. Vehicle must have a valid MOT to compete as RTV class. Roll cage is not required but some form of protection from the drive being crushed by the weight of the vehicle is require, so rag top vehicles must have a roll cage.

This class usually contains a mixed bag: Land rovers old & new, both diesel & petrol, Susuki's and Jeep's.

Commonly manual gearbox. Some are heavily modified with extra Armour underneath to protect the vital parts like the steering rack, oil sump, gearbox, Transfer box & differentials: front & back! Cos if it goes on section, your driving home on the back of an AA truck!

More information on vehicle regs can be found on Pennine Land Rover website.

So why do it?

It is the cheapest for of motor sport. Forget about TopGear and their outlandish statement that motor cross is cheap, compared to trailing: you can be up and running for under £2000! It requires no special licensing for competitors. Most importantly: ITS A LAUGH!

You meet like minded folk, there is some good competition and banter, some clubs like ours have social camping events: 2 days of trailing, BBQ's and beer (though that's after the days event!). Also there are the usual Christmas and club anniversary parties (Pennine Land rover club just celebrated its 50th Birthday!!)

No off road experience is required, though its worth having a practise with an experienced driver before competing. The basics and an understanding of how the vehicle handles off-road will help a lot!

Safety gear is not necessary: you don't need a crash helmet, but if it makes you comfortable, then by all means. For RTV; a roll cage is not a requirement, but it will save your bodywork if you end up on your side.

If the worse does happen and you blow a differential, snap a half shaft of worse, then there is always a helpful soul that will lend you tools, spares or advice to get you back up and running. In my view: always help your fellow competitors. Playing by yourself is just boring!

You get to be outdoors. If the weathers good, then bonus, if not: man up and get on with it. Unless there weather of apocalyptic proportions, Trailing happens all any weather, all year round: Horizontal rain, snow, or blistering heat, its always on!

You will get mucky: the clerk of the course is 95% of the time a sadist! And will set out parts of the course though a muddy and wet part:

Here is Tony "Man-Duck" taking his navigator of the little ride! This actually wasn't part of the section :D

Checklist for a days trailing:

Spectating:

• Water proof's
• Stout boots
• Lunch
• Drink/Water
• Change of clothes
• Towel (wet)
• Suncream (Sunny)
• hat (as per weather)

Competing:

• The above
• sunglasses
• Tools & a jack
• your motor (obviously)
• membership fee (new members / renewal)
• event fee
• any spares you think you may need (optional but advised)
• tow rope (mandatory) - no kinetic ropes, steel cables, chains or snatch ropes! Must be made of none elastic or non-metal material and be able to hold your vehicles weight - see regs on Pennine Website
• Spare fuel
• a decent set of off-road tires WITH INNER-TUBES - if the bead on your tires breaks due to the flex in the tire off the rim, then the pressure in the tire will escape VIOLENTLY!
• a sense of humour - there will be ribbing and banter, so leave your pet lip at home and try and keep your toys in the pram. You never know, you may get your own nick-name at the end of the day (some of the clubs favorites: Cane Killer, Dangerous Brian, Grinch, il champioini, jezzus, Gobby, Man-Duck)

So......You fancy it?!?